Bob Mackie. Anna Sui. Whithall & Shon. Todd Oldham. Just to name a few of the several Fashion houses that I have worked and designed for over 20 years. My Menswear/Womenswear collections have appeared in over 30 magazines from New York to London. My work also have appeared in several productions. Coffee table Books. Fashion Editor of Anolie. This is my Story. Interviews And what is Happening Around the World!. And the latest talk in the Fashion World! 2.5 Million readers follows my story!
Rousteing of Balmain, Phoebe Philo of Céline, Riccardo Tisci of
Givenchy and Joseph Altuzarra are some of the names that have been
thrown (not by the individuals themselves) into the ring for both jobs.
Hands down the loudest speculation, however, is that Mr. Elbaz, now
presumably a free agent, is the natural choice for Dior.
But is he? A little perspective.
We’ve been to this dance before. Rumor had it that Mr. Elbaz was a top candidate in 2011 when John Galliano was fired
from Dior and the house was first looking to fill the position that
eventually went to Mr. Simons. There was a reason the two sides decided
not to engage, and it may well still hold true. Though there is also one
big difference between now and then: Mr. Elbaz is no longer employed,
and the need for a job is a big deal — even if his forced exit came with
a fairly large parachute.
Still, if Dior wanted him then, there’s no reason it wouldn’t want him again.
all, Mr. Elbaz is very talented, and he has made a signature out of a
certain kind of highly decorative ease that would make sense in the Dior
aesthetic lineage. He understands how to manage a heritage brand,
having been at Yves Saint Laurent for a brief stint after Mr. Saint
Laurent retired from ready-to-wear and at Lanvin for 14 years, and he
appreciates the responsibility of being entrusted with a legacy. He can
work with an atelier (the Lanvin atelier loved him). He lives in Paris
and does not have the distraction of a second brand.
he is widely adored in the fashion world. On Wednesday, talking on the
phone, Ralph Toledano, the president of the Fédération Française de la
Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode, and
the man who brought Mr. Elbaz to Paris as the designer of Guy Laroche in
1996, told me, “The fashion world loves him, and he deserves it.”
that the fashion world is mourning Mr. Simons’s departure, replacing
him with someone who has its support, and who is seen as having been
maltreated, would give Dior a fairly deep cushion of good will.
all makes a fair amount of sense, yet Mr. Elbaz has been very vocal
about his attraction to the small, tight team at Lanvin. His bruising
experience at Yves Saint Laurent, where he was replaced in short order
by Tom Ford after the brand was bought by then-Gucci Group, has made him
leery of the corporatization of fashion.
is a designer who wears his emotions on his sleeve, and Dior is one of
the biggest global brands in the industry, a cornerstone of the
billion-dollar club. Its demands of a creative director are well
documented — though at the same time, there were areas that were
off-limits to Mr. Simons: the choice of celebrity representatives, for
example; the store design. Both of those bore the quirky signature of
Mr. Elbaz at Lanvin, and they would probably be responsibilities that
would be hard for him to relinquish as they are integral to the
aesthetic message of a brand.
the end, though, the single biggest factor that argues against this
possibility is a speech Mr. Elbaz gave last week at the Fashion Group
International Night of Stars in New York, noting that “everyone in
fashion just needs a little more time.” A lack of time was widely
believed to have contributed to Mr. Simons’s decision to leave Dior, so
it would seem contradictory for Mr. Elbaz to turn around and opt for
when Mr. Elbaz commits to a brand, he does so for the long term, and
Dior could use a little commitment about now — both for the sake of the
men and women in the ateliers, and for the sake of the customers.
very conclusive, I know. But if years watching this business has taught
me anything, it’s that I can rarely second-guess the machinations of
creative hiring that go on behind the ornate facades of these brands. It
could be that Dior really wants to shock the world by going with the
unexpected, à la Balenciaga and Demna Gvasalia.
And Mr. Elbaz may decide he’s had enough and would just like a
different life, as Helmut Lang and Ann Demeulemeester did before him.
all our sakes, it would be healthier to stop the gossip; to let Mr.
Elbaz and Sidney Toledano, the chief executive of Dior, catch their
breath; to leave this to the headhunters to sort out; and to assess the
decision once it has been made.
Though if you believe that is going to happen, I also have a very pretty bridge I can sell you.