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Thursday, February 4, 2016
Versace Menswear: Spring 2016
love drama," Donatella Versace announced backstage. "You know I'm a
drama queen." So, with silk scarves billowing, sand underfoot, and a
suitably dramatic quote from Lawrence of Arabia projected on
the back wall ("No Man Needs Nothing"), the Versace show space on Via
Gesù was turned into a vast and luxurious Bedouin tent.
backdrop, the clothes that paraded past were the familiar
repertoire—blousons, leathers, firm-shouldered tailoring—cannily given
an exotic twist to fit the theme. And that twist turned up on tops
elongated to at least mid-thigh, more often to the knee. Even a
button-down shirt was kurta-length, worn under a softly tailored suit.
The proportion play emphasized the collection's sensual fluidity,
especially when it was expressed in sinuous tie-dyed knits, which looked
sun-bleached. Sand, spice, the purple of sunset, and the navy of night
also riffed on a desert color palette.
The longer layering
didn't always work and the styling ran away with an outfit or two (one
head-scarfed honey was all about the Axl Roses), but the air of elegant
menace that Versace veteran Scott Barnhill projected in his suit and loooong
shirt emphasized the formal potential of the combination. If no man
needs nothing, then every man needs something and, from this collection,
Barnhill's look was it.